Growing Maidenhairs (Adiantums) --
A Collective Opinion
At least two different sources prompted this article about growing
Maidenhair (Adiantum) ferns. First, I commonly hear fern growers avoid
Maidenhair ferns because "I kill them" and they are "too hard to grow."
Second, there was a veritable deluge of opinion on the fern-related
e-mail group, the Fernet.
Like most ferns, Maidenhairs tend to grow better when planted in the
ground. In fact, they can become a weed. So, this article concentrates
on growing Maidenhairs in pots. Two fairly well known Maidenhair
experts agree on some general advice. Milton Piedra of Florida, USA,
and Chris Goudey of Melbourne, New South Wales, Australia (author of
Maidenhair Ferns in Cultivation) agree that most Maidenhair ferns
like a lot of bright indirect light, air movement, and humidity. Many
Fernetters have their opinions and tips on this topic.
Cynthia Farden of New Jersey offered this:
I've been growing maidenhairs successfully ever since I found out that
they don't want to be misted. Keep the soil moist, though. You can also
submerge the pot once a week. They love that. I wonder if you're misting
the foliage. Try raising the humidity above 50 by sitting the pots on
stones in humidity trays. You can also create more humidity by placing
wet NZ sphagnum moss around the plant at the soil line. But make sure
the soil can "breathe."
Betty Hamilton of South Bend, Indiana, also had some advice:
I have had some success with ferns indoors, and have found that grouping
plants together will help increase humidity in the local area ? the more
the better. Avoiding drafts & full/bright sun when placing plants is
important. Clay pots are good for humidity maintenance, but not for
allergies. I too have allergy problems, and moderate humidity of 50% is
a compromise, not to encouraging of molds and not too hard on the
humidity in the micro-climates created by grouping plants. Good
nutrition helps plants (and people) tolerate environmental stress.
Keeping plants potted in a container large enough to stay moist for a
several days is also helpful.
Another consideration is your water. I am now living in an area where
the water is suspect (high in minerals Ca, Mg, & Fe, and very alkaline),
and don't drink it without filtration. My plants flourished outside
last summer, and struggled indoors during the winter. Those plants that
went back outside rebounded after the first rain.
Betty brings up two new topics, clay pots and pH, which will come up as
continuing themes.
Aurora Vanderbosch in Boston responds to the humidity issues and adds
some detail about varieties of Maidenhair. Keep your eye on the
Adiantum hispidulum issue.
Maidenhairs are a passion of mine...any variety I can get my hands on,
but particularly A. raddianum...and I've discovered that most of them
thrive in the windows of my very sunny Boston apartment if I keep the
humidity at 70% at all times, and give them a small drink of water each
day, with a nice soak, once a week. (All but the hispidulums, which
keep dying on me, regardless of my routine!) I also pinch back any limp
or crisped fronds daily, so I constantly have new growth coming up.
Even with those basic rules of thumb, I have to constantly be on the
watch for changes in the environment, as well as to make adjustments
for individual preferences. Capillus-veneris seems to like less water
and more sun... [A. raddianum] Gracillimum is very finicky and withers
if someone thinks bad thoughts its way...Fragrans is fairly easy...Friz
Luth tends to crisping...Sleeping Beauty's fronds rot easily...I think
you just have to keep trying until you find the one(s) that work best
for you under the conditions you find easiest to maintain.
Darrren Andre from Northridge California suggests why several people
reported problems with Adiantum hispidulum (Rosy Maidenhair or Rough
Maidenhair):
I have found that the hispidulums like it a bit on the dry side (I grow
them outside in a rather warm relatively dry(low humidity) interior
valley in Southern California and they are one of the few that perform
very well.) I would try to water them less (like maybe once/twice a
week, tops!)
David Nicholls from Canberra ACT Australia agreed with Darren:
In Oz [Australia], the A. hispidulum I've seen in the wild grow most
readily in temperate coastal areas and a bit inland, and also up in the
hills in tropical rainforest areas, where the humidity can be anywhere
from 20% to 90% or more. It seems to like quite dry soils (within
reason) but frosts are a killer.
Robert Arias of Tampa, Florida, answered questions about lime and
limestone with two different responses. Here are some excerpts:
Where do adiantums grow in the wild? Usually in very damp places like
river banks, limestone cliffs, sinkholes and cave openings. I'd like to
put an emphasis on limestone.
Marie Van Ette was going give a talk on maidenhairs at a meeting of the
Tampa Bay Fern Club. I went to listen to what she had to say and to ask
what I could do to keep these wonderful plants alive. She began her
presentation by saying
"you know, maidenhairs in general like a limey soil". Well this just
blew my mind. In the first sentence she spoke was the answer to most of
my problem. I like to grow staghorns, which are acid loving, and I was
treating my maidenhairs like staghorns. I have been to swamps where the
pH is very low (very acidic), due to the leaf matter built up over time,
and will come across a limestone boulder that will look like a fern
explosion erupting from the swamp. Also I have found crayfish mounds
(crayfish burrow into the ground pushing sand up to the surface where
it forms a small mound) where, on older mounds, maidenhairs grow in
abundance, but won't be found growing anywhere else. I'm not saying
that all Maidenhairs "like" lime, but I've never killed one by putting
some crushed limestone in with my potting mix, nor have I seen one
"melt" when I've watered with a little lime water. On the other hand I
have seen these wonderful ferns burn up after an acid rain when the soil
was a bit acidic to start with.
Betty Hamilton provided a little Lime Tea recipe:
I was once told by a very good commercial grower that she supplied lime
to her maidenhair ferns, large and small, by allowing an excess of lime
to stand in (a jar of) water overnight so that it would be "saturated",
then she used this to water the plants, saturating the soil. She would
do this spring and fall, or as needed. Small amounts of powdered lime
added into the soil mix is far more effective than small lime pebbles in
altering the soil chemistry in the desired direction.
Dave Nicholls of Canberra reminds us that we need to do our research on
our Maidenhairs:
The comments about ferns in limestone areas in the US are interesting,
but seem to run counter to what goes on in Oz. In the Canberra area
(SE Oz) the soils are mostly acidic and the ferns (including all the
tree ferns) grow in humus rich areas along the creeks. Because there
aren't many areas with alkaline soils in this region, the ferns have
evidently adapted to acid soils...Near Canberra there are several
limestone provinces. On the only one I've looked at closely, there is a
unique growth of Asplenium trichomanes. It appears to grow nowhere else,
and no other ferns grow on the limestone. Very curious. The two
maidenhairs that grow in this vicinity (A. aethiopicum and A.
hispidulum) are happy in the normal soil areas.
Keith Rogers of Mannum, South Australia offered a list of tips:
After reading a few of the Maidenhair problems, I realised they were all
perhaps suffering from either a lack of air movement, lack of high
indirect sunlight, perhaps overwatering, overpotted, incorrect pH
problems and poor potting medium and maybe refrigerated air conditioning.
Most media require the addition of some composty material, plus some
perlite and in most cases for Adiantums, the addition of dolomite lime.
The mix should be left in a moist state, in a plastic bag, for a few
days to absorb the lime.
Adiantums must be allowed to almost dry out occasionally. Fertilise
regularly at half strength.
It is important to note that not all lime is alike and that not all
ferns like lime. Keith just mentioned dolomitic lime. The related
article on lime provides many important answers about using lime
agriculturally.
Betty Hamilton brought back up the issue of plastic versus clay pots.
Are your pots clay or plastic? I have had much better luck with
maidenhairs in clay, I think because clay allows lots more air into the
soil.
There were several responses to the issue of clay versus plastic.
Albert Foster of Georgia, USA gave this advice:
I have yet to find a fern that does "better" in plastic. I move most of
mine to clay as soon as possible if I acquire something new in plastic.
Even if the plastic is not harmful I like the overall appearance much
better, especially as they age in the garden. Also, I feel the air and
moisture access to and from the root zone is a plus.
If a species or group like the maidenhair need the more alkaline
environment growers can use concrete pots to good advantage. It
simulates a limestone environment very well while keeping the soft
appearance and aging characteristics of clay. I've used concrete pots
for Bostons and a few special cases like Korean Rock Fern that like
alkaline conditions.
Christopher Goudey in his book suggested this:
"Many growers are uncertain about whether to use plastic or terracotta
plant pots for their Maidehair ferns. All ferns need air at their
roots, and this can be achieved by the incorporation of coarse, open
materials into the soil medium. Terracota pots allow more air to reach
the roots of plants, but are more demanding than plastic pots, as they
dry out quickly and need additional watering. Plastic pots are
satisfactory, but do not allow the same amount of air to reach the roots
of the plants." (p. 20)
Chris went to make this compromise suggestion:
"Growers who favor terracotta pots, but do not want the risk of losing a
Maidenhair fern through it drying out, could find it beneficial to
double pot their plants. The plants should be potted in the noraml
way, in a terracotta pot, being sure to provide the fern with ample
drainage. Select a large plastic pot, which will allow ample space
to pack at least 3 cm of sphagnum or bush mossaround the outside of
the terracotta pot, once it has been placed within the plastic pot.
This method has a dual purpose, it not only allows air and adequate
moisture to reach the roots, it also keeps the root system at a more
uniform temperature."